Wednesday, September 3, 2008

The Churches in Cordoba




While in Cordoba I visited many churches. It is a city filled with history. Cordoba is one of the oldest cities in Argentina, founded by the Spanish extending the reach of their territory from Peru, in 1573. With the arrival of the Jesuit missionaries 23 years later in 1596, Cordoba quickly became an important educational center in the new Spanish territory and colonies in South America. I will say more about this and the Universidad Nacional de Cordoba in a future post. Now I want to share with you about the churches.

The oldest church in town, at least in terms of the beginning of its construction, is the Iglesia Catedral, the Cathedral. Construction began in 1577, but dragged on for over two centuries under several architects, including Jesuits and Franciscans. As a result it lacks architectural unity, but it is still a beautiful structure. Crowned by a Romanesque dome, it overlooks Plaza San Martin, the main Plaza de Armas of the city. Its lavish interior was painted by renowned cordobes (Cordoban) painter Emilio Caraffa. As in many Catholic Churches, I found the interior very gaudy, overly decorated, and filled with all sorts of statuary, dioramas, and other religious art work.

The second oldest church in town is the Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus. Its construction began in 1645 but was not completed until 1671. It was designed by the Flemish Padre Philippe Lemaire, who was once a boat builder. This fact is important because it helps explain the most interesting ceiling construction of the church, which is designed like an inverted hull of a ship. There are not apparent supports, other than the walls, and to achieve this effect, Lemaire constructed the entire ceiling out of Paraquayan cedar, a very light wood, from Misiones province, in northeast Argentina. The entire design is new world baroque, and the baroque altarpiece is also constructed from Paraquayan cedar, which is overlayed in gold. It is also interesting that the structure was built in segments in Misiones province, to exact dimensions taken by Lemaire, and then transported to Cordoba to be assembled in the Church.

The other extremely interesting church I visited was the Parroquia Sagrado Corazon de Jesus de los Capuchinos. This was probably the most fascinating of the Churches. It is built in the neo-gothic style and was constructed between 1928 and 1934. Its glaring oddity is a missing steeple (omitted on purpose to symbolize human imperfection.) It is gorgeous inside and out. Outside the facade is covered with statues, beginning with the lowest statues a series of Atlases symbolically straining to bear the spiritual weight of the religious figures above them, which include the 12 apostles, Jesus, numerous female characters, or angels, etc. Be sure to check out the pictures in the Kodak Gallery link.

Cordoba will go down, probably, as my most religious week in Argentina. I began the week by attending worship in a local Evangelical Church. I learned that they worship primarily in the evening, probably because Argentinos stay up late, sleep late, and are more geared to night-time activities, but my hostess really didn't know the reason. I visited six Catholic churches, two of them twice, and three of them on Sunday when mass was being held (I did not stay for any of the masses, but I did look in and noticed that they were fairly well attended.) My impression is that contrary to what I have been told by many of the local people, the religious life, even the life of the churches, is alive and well, even vibrant. Undoubtedly it could be stronger, but then again, the religious life in the United States could be stronger as well.

If you are interested in viewing more pictures of these churches, follow these links to the Kodak Gallery albums I have created. You do not have to join anything to view the albums, just click the "view album" option. If you want to save the photos to your own account, then you have to open an account, which is free.


This link goes to pictures of the Church of the Jesuits: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=6d2p4u6.9o8kje16&x=0&y=clvf24&localeid=en_US

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Las fotografías son increíbles! y las fotos con los San Bernardo tambien..!me pregunto..qué pensaria Summer si las viera y si pudiera hablar! ay...ay.
Saludos de todos desde Miami...AGJ